Geltz Zilliken Rausch Auslese 2010

Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate

Acidity as well as residual sugar are ratcheted-up from already improbably levels (to 13.5 and 147 grams respectively) in the auction-destined Zilliken 2010 Saarburger Rausch Riesling Auslese A.P. #5, which comes off very Eiswein-like with its fresh lime and lemon accompanied by their candied rinds and a creaminess of texture allied to incandescent as well as invigorating citricity. Alkaline, smoky, fungal, musky, and smoky overtones lend this elixir botrytis-induced intrigue, and it finishes with almost incredibly forceful grip. There is an embryonic sense here, and as near-overwhelming as the wine is, it seems likely you’ll have to wait for a decade to really perceive where this is headed.

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